Elizabeth Bay House -
7 Onslow Avenue
Elizabeth Bay - New South Wales
photo courtesy of a friend
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Elizabeth Bay House was built between 1835 & 1839 In the Regency Architectural Style & was originally surrounded by a 22 Hectare garden, in what was then the Fashionable Suburb of Woolloomooloo Hill.
The rooms, Sweeping staircase and lavish furnishings reveal the tastes of its original owner Alexander Macleay. The one time Colonial Secretary Of New South Wales, had magnificent gardens Expressed his passion for the natural world. By the 1840's a downturn in the economy ushered him towards financial ruin.
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Alexander macleay arrived in Sydney from England in January 1826, with his wife Eliza, 9 of 10 surviving children, and his extensive entomological collection. At the time he possessed the finest and most Extensive collection of any private individual in England.
Architect John Verge produced a design for a splendid "Marine Villa" in the Greek Revival Style which was at its peak of popularoity at the time.
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A Nearby grotto with accompnaying stone walls & steps, plus several trees, are all that remain of the original extensive Gardens. It helf Macleays considerable native and exotic Plant Collection, an orchard & kitchen garden.
The main axis of the house is aligned with the Winter Solstice.
For the remainder of the 19th Century & well into the 20th Century Elizabeth Bay House had a Chequered history, With the property being subdivided, the gardens were reduced to a small fragment. The house became home for a succession of tenants inclusing many artists.
In 1961 the National trust started to list and publicise important histporic places and Elizabeth bay house was One of the first 50 names.
in 1977 the house was extensively restored and refurbished. Initially so it could become the offical residence of the Lord Mayor of Sydney, it later became one of the first properties acquired by the Historic Houses trust.
Elizabeth Bay House was an allotment of 54 Acres granted to Alexander Macleay in 1828. It Is 1 of only 5 remaining homes from the original 17 Darlinghurst Villas that were the first buildings to be deceloped on Woolloomooloo Hill also known as Darlinghurst in the 1830's
But it is only 1 of 3 that survive in their original condition without serious modifications.
These Include
- Barham (1833) inside the grounds of SCEGGS
- Tusculum (1831-1835) On Manning St Potts Pt
The Other 2
Telford Lodge (1831)
- Rockwall (1837)
Are Barely recognisable & have been extensively modified or partially demolished
The greatest thing about Elizabeth Bay House today is that it's owned by the Historic Houses Trust & is open to the public.
Scottish born Macleay was a passionate and extravagent man who spent liberally on landscaping his homes and his entomological collections of which his main interest was of moths & butterflies.
in 1795 he had Entered the British Civil Service as Chief Clerk of the War Office and was later Secretary Of the Transport Board, but when the board was disbanded in 1818 he was out of work
With mounting bills for his homes in Westminster & Surrey, which were undergoing landscaping improvements- as well as his big spends for his entomological collection and Investment Losses, he began borrowing from his eldest son William.
But in 1925, his former colleagues rallied and secured him the Australian post, which came with a 2000 pound Salary and Official Residence that was initally rent free.
Macleay arrived in Sydney in 1826 with his wife & daughters (of a total of 17 Children) but he was so enamoured by the place he eventually persuaded other family members to join them, including his son William & Grandchildren Arthur & Georgina Onslow, who were the children of his Indian based daughter & son in law Ross & Arthur Onslow
In those days Macleays bug collection was recognised at the largest in Private Possession. He brought it with him to Australia & it possibly had pride of place in his library which at the time was the largest room in an Australian home, reflecting the importance Macleay placed his books & natural history Collections.
With 54 Acres of Bushland at his disposal, Macleay immediately began establishing a Botanic Garden of imported plants in compliment with the native Vegetation, & the green space became wuite an attraction with its rustic bridges, terrace walls and grottoes.
Today only 1 section of garden remains just across the road at the front of the house and is known as Arthur Mcelhone Reserve. There is also only 1 Grotto left if you know where to look - about 100 metres south of the house down Onlsow Avenue, and follow the public path between the flats Eltham & Tradewinds.
The design of the house was as equally celebrated as its gardens and harbour views. The enormous two storey Greek Revival Villa with Cellar, was designed by John Verge & was considered one of the most Extravagent Constructions of the day, with costs totalling around 10,000 Pounds.
Plans for the house were developed in 1832 but construction was delayed until 1835, & the house wasn't completed until 1839
The villa design means the rooms are arranged around the central column or Stair hall and allowed for Architectural experimentation with shaped interior spaces.
The Macleays were forced to sell off furniture to settle some of the debts and in 1846 William took over the Elizabeth Bay House Mortgage and assumed control of the estate.
After less than 6 Years in his Grand unfinished house, Macleay then moved to his country property, Brownlow Hill near camden. Macleay died in 1848 at Tivoli, The Rose Bay Home of his daughter and son in Law.
William Macleay moved into the house in 1845 & lived there alone for 20 years. But lacking the easthetic sensibility of his father, gave no thought to completing the building.
William sounds like a curious character, and during his time at Elizabeth Bay House, the residence was closed to all but the small circle of scientists and Colonial intellectuals with whom he associated. The Boundary of the estate was marked with signs warning potential Trespassers of Guard Dogs.
William died in 1865 and the house was inherited by his brother George, who remained in London. George subdivided the Estate and sold off lots on 99 Year Leases, he sibdivided again only leaving 18 acres. In 1882 Another subdivision was made and there was only 3 Acres of Garden around the house.
George And William's Cousin, William John Macleay, and his wife Susan, were tenants of the house from 1865 to 1903. Susan was the daughter of Edward Deas Thomson, Alexander Macleays Successor as Colonial Secretary, who owned another one of the original Villas - Barham
William John was also a keen Entomologist and had taken over the care of Macleay's Vast collection, building the Macleay museum on an area that is now the lowere corner of Ithaca Road & Bilyard Avenue. William john donated the Collection to the Macleay Museum at the University of Sydney in 1888 and was Knighted for his Generosity. He died in 1891.
From 1891 to 1911 was owned by James William Macarthur Onslow, Great Grandchild of Alexander Macleay. Because George Was based in London the house had been quite neglected, as Macarthur Onslow Embarked ona maintenance program, which included new plumbing, the introduction of gas lighting, 2 new bathrooms, a Servants bell and a new portico.
From 1903 Macarthur Onlsow leased the house to a leather merchant George Michaelis. In 1911 Michaelis purchsed the house for 800 pounds, becoming the first owner who was not from the Macleay family. He stayed at the house with his wife and 3 children until 1926, when he sold it to retailer Sir Sydney Snow.
Snow's shop was on the corner of Pitt St & Liverpool St, and paid 40,000 Pounds before on selling it to Elizabeth Bay estates Limited for 60,000 Pounds.
The final Subdivision of the Estate took place in 1927 with 16 lots put up for auction. 5 lots were sold and were no doubt developed into apartments that exist today. The remaining 11 lots were sold in 1934 and the late 1940's, when more apartment buildings were developed.
The actual house failed to sell at auction in 1927, and thats when the Squatters moved in . This period when the Charm School Artists occupied the house . Artists that lived at the house up until 1935 included Donald Friend, Rex Juilius, Wallace Thornin, who held wild parties in the decaying mansion.
In 1935 Elizabeth Bay Estates leased the property to a Mr and Mrs Hall, and a Mrs L Minnett who renovated and redecorated the house as a venue for fashionable receptions.
In 1940, Evangiline Olga Murray, wife of realtor James Daniel Murray purchased the house and immediately began renovating the house into 15 Apartments, which was carried out Sympatheticallu and without damage to the original fabric of the house.
In 1959 the house was declared an historic building whose preservation was essential for reasons of historic and architectural interest under the County of Cumberland Planning Ordinance.
When Mrs Murray died in 1963, the Cumberland County Council purchased the house and the following year when the council was abolished, it became the responsibility of the State Planning Authority.
The Authority Commissioned the repair works to the roof, dome & Portico and in 1973 dedicated $275,000 to the buildings restoration but the costs rose to $750,000
In 1977 the house opened to the Public and in 1981, along with Vaucluse House - became one of the first properties acquired by the Historic Houses Trust.
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Daily Telegraph - Thursday 30 September 1926, page 10
HISTORIC HOME SOLD
ELIZABETH BAY HOUSE
One of the finest historic homes in Australia. "Elizabeth Bay House," Onslow Avenue Elizabeth Bay; was sold -yesterday for £42,500 to a'well-known city business man. . The vendor
was Colonel Geo. Mlchaelis. managing director of M'Murtries, Ltd. "Elizabeth Bay House" was built, in 1828 by Alexander Macleay, then Colonial.- Secretary, he having : obtained a grant of .54 acres of ground on the foreshores - of Elizabeth Bay. Here he devoted a great deal of time and money, to the study & -classification of fauna & flora, & the property, was-famous- for its collection of flowers & shrubs from all over the world. The home was built by convicts, & underneath the dwelling are-two large cellars, now subdivided into- several rooms, where the convicts were quartered." The house is constructed entirely of 'Stone, & it is understood that it cost over- £10,000 to build. That sum represented a very large amount of money nearly 100 years ago. . . "Elizabeth Bay House" was occupied, by the Macleay family until 1903. The present' occupants. Col. Mlchaelis & his family, have lived there for over 20 years, & the previous resident was Colonel Onslow. In 1875 the extensive grounds were subdivided into streets & avenues, which form: portion of the suburbs, Potts Point, Elizabeth Bay, Rushcutters Bay and; part of Darlinghurst.. The original property extended from the shores of Elizabeth and Rushcutters Bays to William St Darlinghurst.
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Elizabeth Bay 1849
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Elizabeth Bay Estate 1859
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Elizabeth Bay House - The Finest House in The Colony
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Elizabeth Bay House & The Winter Solstice
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The Ghost Kitchen At Eloizabeth Bay House
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Lost Gardens Of Sydney - Elizabeth Bay House
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Historic Elizabeth Bay
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Setting the Table At Elizabeth Bay House
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Elizabeth Bay House
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Day 22 - Elizabeth Bay House
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Historical Elizabeth Bay House - Colonial Architecture
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Kings Cross & Elizabeth Bay House
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The Hidden Gem Of Elizabeth Bay
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The Rocks To Elizabeth Bay
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Elizabeth Bay Garden
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Built 1835–1839 Architects John Verge & John Bibb (British plan attrib.) · Standing — Museums of History NSW house museum
On the northern edge of Woolloomooloo Hill, Colonial Secretary Alexander Macleay planted a private botanic garden on fifty-four acres of harbour rock and bush, then raised what contemporaries called the finest house in the colony. The oval saloon still soars. The planned Doric colonnade never arrived. The acres became a suburb. The house became flats, a squat, a reception venue — and, after one of Australia’s first scholarly restorations, a public museum. Ambition, insects, bankruptcy, and a staircase like an arum lily: welcome to Elizabeth Bay House.
At a glance
- Address: 7 Onslow Avenue, Elizabeth Bay NSW 2011
- Built: plans from 1832; constructed 1835–1839; occupied 1839
- Architect: John Verge and John Bibb supervising; SHR notes an unknown British designer / imported scheme Verge modified; builder James Hume
- Style: Greek Revival / Colonial Regency villa — severe unfinished exterior; celebrated oval domed saloon and cantilevered stair
- Original owner: Alexander McLeay / Macleay (Colonial Secretary of NSW), with wife Eliza
- Estate: c.54 acres (22 ha) grant by Governor Darling; internationally famous gardens
- Heritage: NSW State Heritage Register #00006; grotto & works SHR #00116
- Current use: Museums of History NSW house museum; free entry; events hire
Site & setting
The Aboriginal name recorded for Elizabeth Bay is Gurrajin. This was Cadigal Country on Sydney Harbour and, under Governor Macquarie, the site of Elizabeth Town, a fishing settlement associated with Bungarees group. Soon after Macleay arrived as Colonial Secretary in January 1826, Governor Darling granted him about fifty-four acres with commanding harbour views.
Macleay did not clear-fell and start again. With assigned convict labour and gardener Robert Henderson, he kept indigenous trees, cut picturesque walks, and layered in a private botanic garden of walls, grottoes, ponds, gravel paths, Cape bulbs, and fruit from half the globe. The Sydney Gazette (May 1831) sang the transformation; Joseph Hooker in 1841 called it a “botanist’s paradise.”
Subdivision from the 1840s onward carved the estate into the suburb we know. Onslow Avenue sliced the famous front lawn; Billyard Avenue edged what became Arthur McElhone Reserve (landscape architect Ilmar Berzins, 1948–50). Today the villa sits tight among flats, looking north to a fragment of garden and the harbour beyond. The grotto and stone walls survive as rare fabric of that early landscape.
Timeline
- c.1815–1820s – Macquarie’s Elizabeth Town Aboriginal settlement at Gurrajin / Elizabeth Bay; bay named for Elizabeth Macquarie.
- 24 Jun 1767 – Alexander McLeay born Ross-shire, Scotland.
- 1794–1825 Linnean Society secretary; FRS 1809; amasses leading private insect collection.
- 14 Jun 1825 – Appointed Colonial Secretary; arrives Sydney January 1826 with Eliza, daughters, library and collection.
- c.1826 – Granted about 54 acres at Elizabeth Bay; begins estate works.
- 1826–1830s Garden laid out; Deas Thomson helps engineer walks; Verge ledger entries for garden structures 1833; grotto/walls c.1832–35.
- 1832 – Villa plans in hand; construction delayed.
- 1835–1839 – House built by James Hume; Verge & Bibb; occupied 1839. Intended Doric colonnade never completed.
- 2 Jan 1837 – McLeay quits Colonial Secretary’s office under Bourke; loss of salary deepens debt.
- 1839 – William Sharp Macleay joins family in Sydney; furnishings ordered in London.
- 1840s – Depression; subdivision fails; library and furniture sold; drawing-room pieces go to Government House in 1845.
- 1845 – William Sharp takes over debts and house; Alexander and Eliza withdraw to Brownlow Hill.
- 18 Jul 1848 – Alexander dies at Tivoli, Rose Bay, after a carriage accident.
- 1845–1865 – William Sharp lives largely alone; scientific salon; dies 1865; estate to brother George.
- 1865–1903 – George subdivides and leases house to Sir William John Macleay and Susan; collections grow; Macleay Museum at University of Sydney endowed in the 1880s–89.
- 1875, 1882 – Further subdivisions; garden shrinks.
- 1891+ – House passes to James William Macarthur-Onslow; maintenance and 1890s portico/balcony works.
- 1903–1926 Leased then sold to George (Col.) Michaelis; first non-Macleay owner.
- Sep 1926 – Sold for £42,500; final land sales 1927; kitchen wing demolished; artists squat through Depression.
- 1935 – Renovated as fashionable reception house; celebrity weddings.
- 1941 – Converted to fifteen flats; Donald Friend among artist residents.
- 1948–50 – Arthur McElhone Reserve created on former front lawn.
- 1961–63 – Early National Trust listing; Cumberland County Council purchases house.
- 1972–76 – Scholarly restoration; first intended as Lord Mayor’s residence, then public museum.
- 1977 – Opened to the public.
- 1981 – Among first properties of Historic Houses Trust of NSW; now Museums of History NSW.
- 2 Apr 1999 – Entered on NSW State Heritage Register (#00006).
Architecture & interiors
Elizabeth Bay House is a two-storey Greek Revival villa on a centralised Palladian plan — square vestibule opening into an oval, domed saloon where a cantilevered Marulan sandstone stair rises to an arcaded gallery under a lantern. Cedar joinery, blackbutt floors, Grecian architraves, laurel-wreath plasterwork and imitation-bronze cast-iron balusters made its reputation.
The exterior is another story. Soft Sydney sandstone under sand paint; blind windows for symmetry; a light iron-and-wood portico that was not part of the 1830s design. The house was meant to wear a single-storey Doric colonnade on three sides — the sort Conrad Martens painted into existence. Money ran out; the colonnade never rose; the façade stayed severe. The small portico arrived only in the Macarthur-Onslow years. Service wings and stables are gone; the kitchen wing was sacrificed in the 1927 carve-up. Cellars remain under the house. Museum interiors today interpret 1839–1845 through inventories, paint scrapes and furniture trails.
People & anecdotes
Alexander McLeay / Macleay was Colonial Secretary, Linnean secretary, Fellow of the Royal Society, and a collector whose insect cabinets were said to be unmatched in private hands in England. He worked twelve-hour days for Darling, fought Bourke over education and exclusivism, lost office in 1837, took the Speakership in the 1840s, and still found time for bulbs, botanic-garden politics and a harbour showpiece he could not afford. ADB files him as McLeay; the Australian family settled on Macleay.
Eliza Macleay ran the household through the rise and fall. William Sharp Macleay — Cambridge scholar, pre-Darwinian theorist and recluse — paid debts, sold drawing-room glories, posted dog-warning signs and kept the house as a scientific salon until 1865. Cousin Sir William John Macleay and Susan turned the collections into a public legacy: the Macleay Museum at the University of Sydney. Through daughter Rosa’s Onslow marriage, the house later brushed the Macarthur-Onslow world of Camden Park.
Twentieth-century chapters are pure Sydney scrapbook: Michaelis family life; Snow and the Estates company; Charm School artists camping in a decaying mansion; reception-house glamour; fifteen flats without gutting the fabric; then the conservation rescue that helped invent the Historic Houses Trust. No Mitchell owner belongs in this story — only the Mitchell Library, which holds the plant and seed books.
What stands today
Elizabeth Bay House stands, and unlike many on this blog it is a working house museum.
- Visit: 7 Onslow Avenue, Elizabeth Bay — Museums of History NSW. Free entry; typically open Sundays and Mondays 10am–4pm — confirm at mhnsw.au/visit-us/elizabeth-bay-house/.
- Walk the reduced curtilage and cross Onslow Avenue into Arthur McElhone Reserve for the harbour outlook and lawn fragment.
- Seek the grotto remnant, taking care with private property boundaries.
- Pair with Vaucluse House and the Verge survivors Tusculum and Rockwall.
Sources & further reading
- NSW State Heritage Register — Elizabeth Bay House (SHR 00006): https://apps.environment.nsw.gov.au/dpcheritageapp/ViewHeritageItemDetails.aspx?ID=5045185
- NSW State Heritage Register — Elizabeth Bay House Grotto Site and works (SHR 00116)
- Museums of History NSW — Elizabeth Bay House: https://mhnsw.au/visit-us/elizabeth-bay-house/
- Dictionary of Sydney — Elizabeth Bay House: https://dictionaryofsydney.org/building/elizabeth_bay_house
- ADB — Alexander McLeay: https://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/mcleay-alexander-2413
- ADB — John Verge: https://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/verge-john-2757
- Scott Carlin, Elizabeth Bay House: a history and guide, Historic Houses Trust of NSW, 2000
- Joy Hughes, Macleay entries, Oxford Companion to Australian Gardens, 2002
- State Library of NSW, Villas of Darlinghurst exhibition catalogue, 2002
- Sydney Barani — Elizabeth Town: https://www.sydneybarani.com.au/sites/elizabeth-town/
- Daily Telegraph, 30 September 1926, “Historic Home Sold” (clipping on existing blog post)
- Existing scrapbook post: https://historicsydneymansionsmanorshouses.blogspot.com/2016/06/elizabeth-bay-house-elizabeth-bay-new.html
Related on this blog
- Tusculum – Potts Point (Verge neighbour)
- Rockwall – Potts Point (Verge neighbour)
- John Verge – Colonial Architect
- Vaucluse House – Vaucluse
- Tiranna – Elizabeth Bay
