Houses Of Colonial Sydney Elizabeth Bay House - Herald - Sat 25 June 1949 - Pg 14 - New Books Reviewed

 

Houses Of Colonial Sydney 

NEW BOOKS REVIEWED - -
- - Conducted by Clive Turnbull

Houses of Colonial Sydney

SOME HOUSES & PEOPLE OF NEW SOUTH WALES, by G. Nesta Griffiths (Sydney: Urc Smith)

The shelves in an Australian library which ought to be labelled Memoirs & Social History are mostly blank. Only in recent years has there been any attempt to tell us about the people, apart from governors & politicians, who made the Australia we live in.

SOME Houses & People of New South Wales?" very entertaining, one of the gaps. It Is Australia's story, with a small "s" certainly, disregarding most of the economic background, but it does provide a vast amount of information about the people who built Sydney's best known houses, from the days of the Macarthurs onward, & it's illustrated with a valuable series of photographs of dwellings as they used to be & are now. Written with knowledge, & sympathy, this Is an amiable round-up by an author to whom the ramifications of the Sydney families are an open book, in terms which all of them would certainly approve. 

There's nothing discreditable about anyone's great-grandfather. To readers who know the houses & the descendants of the people described the book will obviously have a special appeal. Others may regard It as the groundwork for an historical study — Miss Griffiths supplies the facts: you may supply your own interpretation. 

The houses photographed Illustrate the decline in taste which we should expect. The simple forms of the Georgian colonists gave place to the sometimes grotesoue ostentation of the later Victorian ace. One's fear that some of the more charming houses may be pulled down is balanced by a hope that some of the others will. Notable & gracious houses here shewn include Camden Park, Elizabeth Bay House a groundless survivor amid architectural parvenus. Tusculum, Glenrock & Fassy. There are some harmless equivalents of Toorak Renals. The' horrible examples one forbears to mention: they are plain to see. 

Of all these dwellings' ElizabethBay Bay House is probably the most familiar as in its latter-day status as a rooming house, it has harbored many birds of passage. As Miss Griffiths points out there are probably hundreds of people in Sydney today to whom the name Macleay means a street on Pott's Point, though there are still a few who can remember Elizabeth Bay House before it was shorn of its glories. 

Alexander Macleay was appointed Colonial Secretary in the twenties of last, century, & was later granted 54 acres at Elizabeth Bay. "a mile & a half from Sydney," for the purpose of erecting a family house & cultivating a garden — he had been secretary of the Lutheran Society. The house was completed in the 1830's, & the garden included all or what is now known as Elizabeth Bay to the western frontage of Rushcutter's Bay. Even in the forties it had become "one of the most perfect places I ever saw in my life." according to a visitor — the house "like a nobleman's palace." Macleay planted flowers & trees from "every climate, from Rio to the West, & East Tndies. China, & even England." from the Cape & from New Zealand. Both Macleay & the son who succeeded him were great patrons of learning &, indeed, everything agreeable, & entertained everyone of consequence from John Gould, of bird celebrity, to T. H. Huxley.

The celebrated staircase at Elizabeth Bay House, Sydney, now a forlorn reminder of colonial grandeur in a suburb of lowering pais.
In 1915 the garden was greatly reduced. This century the house was occupied by various families, & In 1927 the estate was cut up & sold, the house for £14.000. the land for £150 a foot, a total of £57.509. "As the high ltde of progress Inps around what remains of this beautiful house." says Miss Griffiths, "It stands a pathetic relic surrounded by great blocks of flats. The gracious bow windows with their slightly curved/glass still 'retain a few original panes. The lovely panelling, the door frames, & those immense & capacious cellars remain to give some idea of Its past magnificence. but the glory of the garden Is only a memory. "In the hall at the old house the beautiful cantilever staircase soars upward in a gradual curve like the flower of an arum lily." Sydney has not been kind to these charming old houses. Burdekin House, Macquarle Street completed In 1811 for Thomas Burdekin — the river is named after his son — was demolished "in the cause of progress in the carlv nineteen-thirties." Of another estate we read "the lovely park overlooking the Parramatta River, bounded by the Duck River & Hacking's Creek Is now bordered- by the Homebush Abattoirs & Carnarvon Golf Links." It was nice while it lasted.
C.T.

Original Villas Of Darlignhurst -

 

The Original Villas Of Darlinghurst 

It's Really Hard To Imagine What It was like in Kings Cross And Potts Point 150 years Ago, when Darlinghurst & Potts Point Were being built literally from the ground up. Every Time I walk through that area I try to imagine where the Houses had been, & what they looked like, & property Boundaries & the way the topography of the land is now. 

There is very little left, next to nothing actually of the Grand Structures that used to be there, from stables, cottages, servants quarters, and carriageways. 

In the early days the area had been named "Henrietta Town", named after Governor Macquarie's wifes First Name. 
The First House Of Note Was "Craigend" Fronting Upper William St South, now Wollcott St, built by Sir Thomas Mitchell, Surveryor General . 

Just behind "Craigend" was the last of old Darlinghurst Windmills, known as Hynde's Windmill. Originally there were 3, one near the goal,  2 were made of wood & required Manual labour but the third was mechanical.

Across Upper William St at its junction with Darlinghurst Rd, formerly Woolloomooloo Rd, was the property of the Hon Richard Jones MC known as "Merchant Jones" which extended into, & along Darlinghurst Rd. The property was built on a portion of land 3 acres 2 rods & 8 perches in extent, formerly granted on 19th October 1831 to Mr S.A. Perry.  The land extending between it & Roslyn Hall was afterwards the site of Alberto Terrace, built & owned by John Solomon. 
Next going east was a grant dated 23rd September 1839, of 4 acres 2 rods & 24 Perches, to Thomas McQuoid mentioned before. 

"Kellett House" was built on it by Sir Stuart Alexander Donaldson, the first Premier in 1856 under Responsible Government; he lived there for some years & it was afterwards owned  by Mr W.F. Buchanon, who pulled down the house, & built a terrace there known as "Bayswater Terrace"

Then there came "Sevenoaks" & "Eaton" where Mr Edward Knox, & afterwards Captain Martindale, then occupied by Mr Edward Fosberty, the late Inspector General of Police

On the opposite side of Princes Road (Off Bayswater Road) & in front of "Sevenoaks" which also had a frontage to that road, were 2 cottages, one known as "Lara"  was occupied by Mr James Norton - Solicitor, before he went to Double Bay. The other house was pulled down & it has been occupied by Lady Dowling, when she vacated "Brougham Lodge" on the death of Sir James Dowling, & after her Sir Henry Parkes & Mr W.H. Piddington. 

Then to the east of Upper William Street North came 2 cottages next to "Eaton" with an old fashioned wooden pump at the bottom of the private road between them, belonging to Mr T.W. Smart. Then there was Vacant Land round & along the gate of Roslyn Hall, owned by Mr Thomas Barker; he built the house, Mr Ambrose Hallen being the architect, living there for a time. St Canice Roman Catholic Church Stands on the site of the exit gate of the property

"It is hardly Visible to the eye from the South Head Road, being surrounded by Advertisement Boardings. Opposite was West's Bush, densely timbered, where the black used to camp. 

Just to the north of "Craigend" is "Goderich Lodge" which was built & lived in by  Mr T McQuiud, the then Sheriff in the 1830's until he died in 1841. The Bishop of Sydney (Dr William Grant Broughton was also a tenant, also Mr S.A. Perryu, the Deputy Surveyor General, Mr William Carr Solicitor in 1848, Mr Charles Scott - Ironmonger, & Mr Frederick Tooth Sold it to Captain Charles Smith of the firm Mcdonald Smith & Co, & was occupied by his widow.  At  one time its gardens extended to the Junction of Upper William Street (North) now Bayswater Road, & Upper William Street (South) where the Warahtah Hotel is now. Subsequently "Waratah" was built next to & on the East side of "Goderich Lodge"

Just a little below these to the east was a later built house, owned by Mr John Williams, the Crown Solicitor, now "Kurragheen"; next thereto was "Hillside" now the site of a large building to be used as dwelling flats, & next to that was a small cottage...

Behind "Hillside" was a house in which the Late Mr Justice Hargrave resided.  The land on which it was built was a portion of 70 Acres grantred on 30th May 1844 to Mr T West.  Roslyn St had not been formed but the Southern boundary of the property ran along to the Junction of Macleay St with the site of its present junction with Rosyln St, close there were 2 Windmills owned by Mr T Barker. 

The "Roslyn Hall" property fronted Macleay St, & the second iron lattice entrance gate at the entrance was in Darlinghurst Rd, nearly opposite "Springfield".The house was a large well built mansion, with a spiral iron staircase to the upper storey; the rooms were large, with a bath fixed in most of the bedrooms level with the floor, so that one had to step down, not up, to get into it.

 
"Roslyn Hall"  was one of the gayest houses of the time. The land extended on the South East to the site of St Canince Church, taking in Roslyn Gardens & Roslyn Road to the East, & on the north "Barnclueth" now called "Kinneil" & part of Elizabeth Bay Road.

 
To the north is "Chevverals" on part of the Macleay grant, next came a large substantial cottage or low built house at the corner of Macleay Street.

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Spacious Days Of Long Ago - New Flats For Old Mansions - A Legacy of Ill - Sydney Morning Herald - Saturday 23rd July 1938 - Page 13

- Specific Houses Mentioned in Article are - 

- Craigend  Mill - Built of Stone - 90ft High - DEMOLISHED     

- "Roslyn Hall" - DEMOLISHED

- "Larbert Lodge" @ Larbert Avenue - DEMOLISHED

- "Grantham" - DEMOLISHED     1937

- "Springfield Lodge" - DEMOLISHED

- "Tusculum" - 

- "Rockwall" - 

- "Tarmons" - Part Of The Catholic School - Home of Sir Maurice O'Connell 

- "Barnclueth" (Kinniel) - DEMOLISHED - Made A Multi Level Carpark 

- "Maranamah" - DEMOLISHED - King Cross Park - Fitzroy Gardens 

- "Cheverells" - DEMOLISHED      

  

* Elizabeth Bay House - The  Entrance Gates To The Private Carriageway Stood At The Start Of Elizabeth Bay Road & Onslow Avenue. The Stables Were Located At Holdsworth Avenue

* Jenner House - 

- "Greenknowe" - DEMOLISHED - Made Greenknowe Avenue

- "Orwell House" - DEMOLISHED - Made Orwell Street 

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.

This cottage was purchased and considerably added to & converted into a house by Mr Sparke, who named it "Maranamah", & his family lived there for a time. Located at 64 Macelay Street. 

Fitzroy Gardens wasn't always a public Space & Park. There used to be 3 Exlusively Beautiful Homes on the land. 

"Maramanah" was built in the 1840's for the shipping Merchant Deloitte. The house was then sold to Anna Challis.....  

From There it went through many owners, including the Hollander Family Who featured in Robin Dalton's 1965 Memoir Aunts Up The Cross"

During the Second World War, "Maranamah" became a recreational centre for the USA Navy & then a Royal Navy Canteen. When the War was over, several returned Servicemen & their families Squatted in the 20 Room Mansion, demanding they be allowed to live in it.  There was a lack of Post War Housing, & the Community supported them  but the Mood Changed  when it was alleged that Communist Party Meetings were taking Place inside. 

"Maranamah" was taken over by the City Of Sydney, & operated as a Hostel until the Mansion & its Grounds were added to The Parcel of land from which Fitzroy Gardens was created and demolished in 1954. 

 

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"Cairo" - 81 Macleay Street 
The Ikon building - formerly the Chevron Hotel - may have a Special Place in Potts Point History, but it actually stands On the Site of A Plush hotel & Guesthouse named "Cairo". Featuring 2 Lawn Tennis Courts & a large Garden. "Cairo" Started its life as a Mansion Called "Prestonville" & Only became a Hotel in 1911. 

In 1929 Mrs JJ Copeman sold "Cairo" at 81 Macleay Street  for 45,000 Pounds to Mr LH Hinks. It was his intention to build a Big Block Of Flats on the site. 
It Was Widely Regarded As one Of The Most Beautiful Buildings in Kings Cross, until it was Knocked Down in 1959 to Make Way for Sydneys Most cutting Edge Hotel. 

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"Barnclueth" adjoining "Roslyn Hall" was occupied by Mr John Brown, Senior Partner of Brown & Co, wine & spirit merchants & afterwards Mr Hernry Moore, the Agent for P&O company, when the Steamers of the company only arrived once a month, & fired a gun off Fort Denison to announce their arrival. It was later purchased by Mr Amos, the Contractor, & added to & modernised, & is now called "Kinneil" & utilised as a boarding house

Following down Macleay Street, next to the house occupied Mr Hodgson, the land was vacant until arriving at "Greenknowe", also on portion of the Macleay Grant, the residence of Mr John Gilchrist the Senior Partnert of Gilchrist, Watt & Co & it was ultimately purchased

Next came two smaller dwellings, & then "Larbert Lodge" which was built & tenanted by Mr C.D. Riddell, the Colonial Treasurer. 

Next to this property was a stone rubble wall, the western boundary of the Macleay Grant, down to the centre of Potts Point, where "Chatsworth": was built in later days by the Hon C J Roberts. This Wall was erected  by William Sharp Mackey, a son of Alexander Macleay. He was a recluse & a naturalist. He had the credit of having loose bloodhounds about the property as a safeguard against thieves & marauders, but I think this was only meant for a scare. He always guarded the beach on Elizabeth Bay, & wouldn't allow anyone to land there, or even anchor a boat there. The Macleay property was 54 Aceres in extent, & was granted to Mr Alexander Macleay By Governor Darling in 1828, who in despatch to the Right Honourable William Huskinsson, dated 128th March 1828 stated: - "The land granted to Mr Macelay at Elizabeth Bay, a mile & a half from Sydney, was for the purpose of erecting a family house & cultivating a garden. Mr Macleays knowledge as a Horticulturalist is likely to prove beneficial  to the Colony. He has already spent a considerable sum on the improvement & cultivation of his grounds, & in erecting a stable & offices preparatory to building a house, which it is his intention shortly to commence, From the manner in which he has entered into this undertaking & scale on which he has commenced to settle & stock the land he has received for agricultural purposes ( the usual grant of 2,500 acres), he will, no doubt, prove an important acquisition to the Colony in this respect alone, the Capital which he has already vested in stock & is still continuing to expand, being considerable."
The Grant took in all Elizabeth Bay & the Western Frontage of Rushcutter's Bay, as far as the Eastern boundary of "Roslyn Hall". It was approached by Elizabeth Bay Rd, as at present. The house was the present "Elizabeth Bay House", another good speccimen of the family mansion.
The frontage to Macleay Street, from the corner of Elizabeth Bay Rd to "Chatsworth" was later built upon. 
The rest of the estate, with the exception of Elizabeth bay House, & grounds, was later divided into numerous building allotment by Mr Alexander Macleay's Son, the late Sir George Macleay, & let on long building leases, on which the present residence & villas were erected. The formal Grant was dated 19th October 1831. Elizabeth Point was so named by Governor Macquarie after his wife's Second Name. The Native name was "Yarrandabby"
A large portion of land near ther extreme Potts Point, 11 Acres in  extent, was originally granted to Mr Judge Adviocate John Wylde on the 1st November 1822 (who was the last Judge Advocate, & for a short time a Judge of the Supreme Court under the Charter of 1823) who delayed fuilfilling the conditions of the grant, for Governor Darling in the above despatch  of 26th March 1828 states :- "The Allotment bearing Judge Wyldes name was grasnted to that Gentleman by Governor Macquarie several years sincce, & still remains unimproved. I propose writing to inform the Judge that it will be resumed by the Government unless the conditions of the grant are speedily fulfilled. "
However, he ultimately fulfilled the conditions. he subsequently converyed 6 & a half acres of it to Mr J.H. Potts, who was one of the early officers of the Bank Of New South Wales, hence the Name Potts Point. It was also called Point Campbell in a survery by Governor Phillip in 1792. The native name was "Carrageen" The street from the end of Macleay Street opposite "Grantham" is called Wylde Street, evidently after the judge. 
On the North Side of this street, built on this land, were the present "Bellevue", "Clarens","Creelwood", "Clifford","Tarana", some of which have been rebuilt or added to or renamed, including the site of Mr W.R. Halls modern "Wildfell", & opposite thereto "Bomerah", belonging to the McQuade family, a few years ago occupied by the Admiral on the station. Then the property "Cintra" & "Campbell lodge" (a portion of the same grant) of Mr J F Hilly, the architect, & opposite this was "Grantham Ville" built on the remaining four & half acres of John Wyldes Grant. This land, on which the house was erected, became, through the purchase from the Judge, the property of Mr Caleb Wilson, the fatheer of Felix Wilson, a defendant in the  celebrated Newtown Ejectment Suit of "Devine v Wilson"
he Built the first house on the property, which he called "Caleb Castle" & by reason of its turrets, it was also known as the "Pepper Pot", & afterwards as "Grantham Ville"; it subsequently became the property of Mr F Parbury. It then passed into the hands of the Late Mr Henry Dangar, & it is now owned by his son the Hon H.C. Dangar M.L.C, who almost wholly rebuilt it in 1870, and changed the name to "Grantham" 
Immediately Opposite "Grantham Ville" was "Clarens" before mentioned, which was in 1847 purchased by Mr George Richard Griffiths, father of Mr F.C Griffiths who came out to Sydney as the General Manager of the Bank Of Australasia, & after resigning this appointment he conducted a Merchants business in Sydney under the style Of Griffiths, Graham & Co. He sold out when he went to England in 1853. 
Later this property was occupied by Sir James Martin, the Chief Justice, & is now under the name of "Wilga", owned & occupied by Dr Faithful. 

On the West side Of Macleay Street, next to "Grantham" came Dr Douglas's Grant of 8 Acres & 9 Perches on the 19th October 1831. He afterwards sold it 22nd September 1832 to Colonel Shadforth, Who built "Adelaide Cottage" on it. The land extended from Macleay Street down to the waters of Woolloomooloo Bay. The whole property came later into the possession of Mr J.H. Challis (Manager for Messrs Flower, Salting & Co, who gave it with another property as a magnificent Bequest, valued at 250,000 Pounds to the University of Sydney. For some time after his deatth it was occupied by Mr MacDonald, of MacDonald Smith & Co. 

Buildings Mentioned - 

- Adelaide Cottage - Demolished
- Alberto Terrace - Demolished      
- Barham - Demolished 
- Barnclueth aka Kinniel - Demolished
- Bayswater Terrace - Demolished
- Bellevue - Demolished 
- Bomerah
- Brougham Lodge - Demolished
 - Cairo - aka Prestonville - Demolished
- Campbell Lodge - Demolished 
- Chatsworth - Demolished 
- Cheverells - Demolished 
- Cintra - Demolished 
- Clarens - aka "Wilga" Demolished 
- Clifford - Demolished 
- Craigend - Hyndes windmill - Demolished
- Creelwood - Demolished 
- Eaton - Demolished 
- Elizabeth Bay House
- Goderich Lodge - Demolished 
- Grantham - Demolished 
- Greenknowe - Demolished 
- Hillside - Demolished  
- Jenner House
- Kellett House - Demolished 
- Kurragheen - Demolished 
- Lara - Demolished 
- Larbert Lodge - Demolished 
- Maranamah - Demolished 
- Orwell House - Demolished
- Rockwall
- Rosebank - Demolished
- Rose Hall - Demolished
- Roslyn Hall - Demolished 
- Seven Oakes - Demolished
- Springfield - Demolished 
- Tarana - Demolished
- Tarmons - Partly Demolished
- Telford Lodge - Demolished
- Tusculum 
- Waratah - Demolished 

- Wildfell - Demolished

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When you look at the list of names of these Houses & Properties, it really shows just how many things have been demolished in Sydney - Potts Point especially. 

Not much has been saved at all. What a shame... Some of those houses and Properties and Frontages could've been Integrated into the new buildings, but no thought was ever put to that. it was all about just bulldozing them over. 

We can be thankful for the protests and Green Bans in the 1970's when they were going to fully destroy "The Rocks" - "Woolloomooloo" and "Victoria Street". There was even talk of Destroying The Queen Victoria Building to make way for a Carpark for the Sydney Council. 

Elizabeth Bay House Would've Matched Vaucluse House had the grounds and waterfront  had been kept 

There are just so many things that could've been integrated and maintained, it really just shows a lack of vision and greed of the time. Properties like Craigend, Roslyn Hall, Larbert Lodge, Greenknowe, Goderich Lodge, Springfield Lodge, Grantham,, Maranamah, Orwell House shoul'dve kept and maintained. There could've been so many uses for those original 

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POTTS POINT, DARLING

POINT AND NEIGHBOUR-

HOOD, IN THE EARLY

DAYS.

Read by Mr. Arthur

Dowling, before the Australian

Historical Society, on 25TH Sep-

tember, 1906.

POTTS POINT.

In view of the changes, which have taken

place in recent years in the ownership, oc-

cupation, and nomenclature of various pro-

perties adjacent to Sydney & intimately

associated with her earlier days, it may not

be unprofitable to trace the history and

vicissitudes of some of them. There are

no locations which give better scope for

this kind of research than “ Potts Point ”

& “ Darling Point.” They were, in the

earliest days, selected as the natural and

proper sites for the “West End’ of the

Metropolis, & the fact of their being at

the “ East End ” is only a confirmation of

the old idea among Britishers that every-

thing Australian is the converse of what

it ought to be. Both were & are ideal

sites for suburban residences, but the

former has been lately sadly shorn of many

of its attractions, & there is too much

reason to fear that the facilities provided

by those in authority for the convenience

& advance of commerce, will deprive its

residents of the quiet & repose they have

hitherto enjoyed.

Commencing with Darlinghurst (in the

early days called “Henrietta Town,” after

Governor Macquarie’s wife’s first Christian

name), the first house of note in.

the thirties was “ Craigend” fronting

Upper William Street South, now Woll-

cott Street, built by Sir Thomas Mitchell,

the then Surveyor-General. It was after-

wards occupied by Mr. G. J. Rogers, soli-

citor, by Mr. Henry Prince, warehouse-

man, & others. Afterwards it was con-

verted into a hospital, & now it is a

boarding-house, the last use that many

large houses are now generally put to.

The building is a good specimen of the

fine old building of the early days, & it is

now- as strong and substantial as it was

when built. Just behind it was the last of

the old Darlinghurst Windmills, known as

Hynde’s, in addition to which there had

been three, just near the Gaol, two of which

were of wood, erected so as to enable them

to be turned by manual labour to the wind.

The larger mill turned mechanically. Just

to the north of Craigend is “Goderich

Lodge” which was built & lived in by Mr.

T. McQuoid, the then sheriff, in the 1830's & the 1840's, till he died in 1841.

The Bishop of Sydney (Dr. William

Grant Broughton) was at one time a

tenant, also Mr. S. A. Perry, the Deputy-

Surveyor-General, Mr. William Carr, soli-

citor, in 1848, Mr. Charles Scott, iron-

monger, & Mr. Frederick Tooth owned it

in the 1850's. Mr. Tooth sold it to Captain

Charles Smith, of the firm of “ McDonald,

Smith, & Co” & it is now occupied by

his widow. At one time its garden ex-

tended to the junction of Upper William

Street North (now Bayswater Road)

& Upper William Street South,

where the “Waratah Hotel” is

now. Subsequently “Waratah” was

built next to, & on the east side of

“Goderich Lodge” & on part of the pro-

perty, as at present, but with the remainder

of the land still vacant & used as a gar-

den, converging at the junction of the two

streets mentioned above. I remember it in

this state, when in the occupation of Mr.

George King, in 1859. It was at one time

occupied by Mr. Edwin Tooth, & Mrs.

Tooth died there.

Across Upper William Street at its

junction with Darlinghurst Road, formerly

Woolloomooloo Road, was the property of

the Hon. Richard Jones, M.C., known as

“ Merchant Jones” (not the father of

Richard Jones, woolbroker, of the present

day), which extended into & along Dar-

linghurst Road. The property was built

on a portion of land 3 acres 2 roods and

8 perches in extent, formerly granted on

19th October, 1831, to Mr. S. A. Perry.

The land extending between it and up

to Roslyn Hall was afterwards the site

of Alberto Terrace, built & owned by

Mr John Solomon. Next going east was

a grant dated 23rd September, 1839, of 4

acres 2 roods and 24 perches, to Thomas

McQuoid, mentioned before; “Kellett

House” was built on it by Sir Stuart Alex-

ander Donaldson, the first Premier in 1856

under Responsible Government; he lived

there for some years, & it afterwards was

owned by Mr. W. F. Buchanan, who pulled

down the house & built the present ter-

race there, known as “Bayswater Terrace.”

Then came “Sevenoaks” where my parents

lived, & Eaton where Mr. Edward

Knox, & afterwards Captain Martindale,

lived& now owned & occupied by

Mr. Edward Fosbery, the late Inspector-

General of Police. On the opposite side

of Princes Road (off Bayswater Road),

& in front of “Sevenoaks” which

also had a frontage to that road,

were two cottages, one of which,

known as “Lara” was occupied by Mr.

James Norton, solicitor (afterwards the

late Hon. Dr. Norton), before he went to

Double Bay. The house is still there; the

other house was pulled down a few years

ago, & it had been occupied by Lady

Dowling, when she vacated “Brougham

Lodge on the death of Sir James Dowling,

& after her by Mr. (later Sir) Henry

Parkes & Mr. VV. H. Piddington. Then

to the east on Upper William Street North

came two cottages next to “Eaton” with

an old-fashioned wooden pump at the bot-

tom of the private road between them, be-

longing to Mr. T. W. Smart. These houses

are there now. Then the land was vacant

round & along to the gate of “Roslyn

Hall” owned by Mr. Thomas Barker; he

built the house, Mr. Ambrose Hallen being

the architect, living there for a time.

St. Canice R.C. Church stands on the site

of the exit gate of the property.

Just a little below these cottages to the

east was a later built house, owned by the

late Mr. John Williams, the Crown Soli-

citor, now “Kurragheen” next thereto was

“Hillside” now the site of a large building

to be used as dwelling flats, & next

thereto was & still is a small cottage in

which my parents lived before removing

to Sevenoaks. It is hardly visible to the

eye from the South Head Road, being sur-

rounded by advertisement hoardings. Op-

posite was West’s Bush, densely timbered,

where the blacks used to camp. Behind

“Hillside” was a house in which the late

Mr. Justice Hargrave resided. The land

on which it was built was portion of 70

acres granted on 30th May, 1844, to T.

West. Roslyn Street had not been formed,

as at present, but the southern boundary of

the property ran along to the junction of

Macleay Street, with the site of its present

junction with Roslyn Street; close thereto

were two windmills, owned by Mr. T.

Barker, one of which was (if not both) let

to one Gerard. The Roslyn Hall property

fronted Macleay Street, & the second iron

lattice entrance gate at the front entrance

was situate in Darlinghurst Road, nearly

opposite “Springfield” The house was a

large well-built mansion, with a spiral iron

staircase to the upper story; the rooms

were large, with a bath fixed in most of the

bedrooms, level with the floor, so that one

had to step down, not up, to get into it.

“Roslyn Hall” was one of the gayest

houses of the time. The land extended on

the south-east to the site of St. Canice

Church, taking in Roslyn Gardens &

Roslyn Road on the east, & on the north

“Barncleuth” now “Kinneil” & part of

Elizabeth Bay Road.

To the north is “Cheverells” on part of

the Macleay grant, where Captain Deloitte,

Mr. David Jones, of David Jones & Co, &

afterwards.the late Hon. W. R. Campbell

resided; next came a large substantial cot-

tage, or low built house, at the corner of

Macleay Street, also built on portion of the

Macleay grant. I cannot remember who

first occupied it, but at one time Mr.

Arthur Hodgson lived there, Mr. Hugh

Gordon, grazier of “Strathbogie” was the

tenant later, and afterwards it was

tenanted by the Hon. J. B. Watt & the

Hon. S. A. Joseph, & in the early days it

was occupied by Mr. J. H. Challis.

Some years ago this cottage was pur-

chased, considerably added to, & con-

verted into a house by Mr. Sparke, who

named it “Maranamah” & his family

lived there for a time, & now Mr. Hol-

lander is the tenant. “Barncleuth” ad-

joining “Roslyn Hall” was occupied by

Mr. John Brown, senior partner of Brown

& Co. wine & spirit merchants, &

afterwards by Mr. Henry Moore, the agent

for the P&O. Company, when the

steamers of the company only ani\ed once

a month, & fired a gun when of Fort

Denison to announce their arrival. It was

later purchased by Mr. Amos, the contrac-

tor. & added to & modernised, & is

now called “Kinneil” & utilised as a

boarding-house. Following down Mac-

leay Street, next to the house occupied by

Mr. Hodgson, the land was vacant until ar-

riving at “Greenknowe" also on portion

of the Macleay Grant, the residence of Mr.

John Gilchrist, the senior partner of the

well-known firm of Gilchrist. Watt &

Co. which he built in 1846, under the

supervision of Mr. James Hume, a very

good architect & builder of the day. Mr.

Salting, of Messrs. Flower, Salting &

Co. once occupied it, then it was let to

various tenants, & was ultimately pur-

chased by Mr. F. H. Dangar. who still

owns it. Next came two smaller dwellings,

& then “Larbert Lodg,” which was built

& tenanted by Mr. C. D. Riddell, the

then Colonial Treasurer fat a later date the

late Captain Lamb lived there for several

years. At the present time Mr. Norman

Cohen lives there. Next to this property

was a stone rubble wall, the western boun-

dary of the Macleay grant, down to about

the centre of Potts Point, where ‘‘Chats-

worth" was built in later days by the Hon.

C. J. Roberts. This wall was erected by

William Shairp Macleay, a son of Alexan-

der Macleay. He was a recluse & a na-

turalist. He had the credit of having loose

bloodhounds about the property as a safe-

guard against thieves & marauders, but

I think this was only meant for a scare.

He always guarded the beach on Elizabeth

Bay, & would not allow anyone to land

there, or even anchor a boat near thereto.

The Macleay property was 54 acres in ex-

tent, & was granted to Mr. Alexander

Macleay by Governor Darling in 1828, who

in a despatch to the Right Honorable

William Huskisson, dated the 26th of

March, 1828, stated: "The land granted to

Mr. Macleay at Elizabeth Bay, a mile &

a half from Sydney, was for the purpose

of erecting a family house & cultivating

a garden. Mr. Macleay’s knowledge as a

horticulturalist is likely to prove beneficial

to the Colony. He has already spent a

considerable sum on the improvement &

cultivation of his grounds, & in erecting

a stable & offices preparatory to building

a house, which it is his intention shortly to

commence. From the manner in which he

has entered into this undertaking & the

scale on which he has commenced to settle

& stock the land he has received for agri-

cultural purpose (the usual grant of 2500

acres), he will, no doubt, prove an im-

portant acquisition to the Colony in this

respect alone, the capital which he has al-

ready vested in stock & is still continuing

to expend, being considerable.” The grant

took in all Elizabeth Bay & the western

frontage of Rushcutter’s Bay, as far as

the eastern boundary of “Roslyn Hall"

It was approached by the Elizabeth Bay

Road, as at present. The house was the

present “Elizabeth Bay House" another

good specimen of the old family mansion.

The frontage to Macleay Street,

from the corner of Elizabeth Bay Road

to Chatsworth, was later built upon.

The rest of the estate, with the excep-

tion of “Elizabeth Bay House” &

grounds, was later divided into numer-

ous building allotments by Mr. Alex-

ander Macleay’s son, the late Sir George

Macleay, & let on long building leases,

on which the present residence & villas

were erected. The formal grant was dated

19th October, 1831. Elizabeth Point was

so named by Governor Macquarie after his

wife’s second name. The native name was

‘‘Yarrandabby.” That of Macleay Point

was “Terrowan.” A large portion of land

near the extreme Potts Point, 11 acres in ex-

tent, was orginallv granted to Mr. Judge

Advocate John Wylde on the Ist Novem-

ber, 1822 (who was the last Judge Advo-

cate, & for a short time a Judge of the

Supreme Court under the Charter of 1824),

who delayed fulfilling the conditions of the

grant, for Governor Darling in the above

despatch of 26th March, 1828, states: "The

allotment bearing Judge Wylde’s name was

granted to that gentleman by Governor

Macquarie several years since, & still re-

mains unimproved. I propose writing to

inform the Judge that it will be resumed by

the Government unless the conditions of

the grant are speedily fulfilled.’’ How-

ever, he ultimately fulfilled the conditions.

He subsequently conveyed 6/ acres of

it to Mr. J. IT. Potts, who was one of the

early officers of the Bank of New South

Wales, hence the name Potts Point. It

was also called Point Campbell in a survey

by Governor Phillip in 1792. The native

name was “ Carrageen.” The street from

the end of Macleay Street, opposite

“Grantham” is called Wylde Street, evi-

dently after the Judge. On the north side

of this street, built on this land, were the

present “Bellevue” “Clarens” “Creel-

wood” “Clifford” “Tarana” some of

which have been rebuilt or added to &

renamed, including the site of Mr. W. R.

Hall’s modern “Wildfell” & opposite

thereto “Bomerah” belonging to the

McQuade family, a few years ago occu-

pied by the Admiral on the Station. Then

the property “Cintra” & “Campbell

Lodge” (a portion of the same grant), of

Mr. J. F. Hilly, the architect; & opposite

this was “Grantham Ville” built on the re-

maining 4F2 acres of John Wylde’s grant.

This land, on which the house was erected,

became, through purchase from the Judge,

the property of Mr. Caleb Wilson, the

father of Felix Wilson, a defendant

in the celebrated Newtown Ejectment

Suit of “ Devine v. Wilson.” He built the

first house on the property, which he called

“Caleb Castle” & by reason of its tur-

rets it was also known as the “Pepper Pot,”

and afterwards as “Grantham Ville”; it

subsequently became the property of Mr. F.

Parbury. It then passed into the hands of

the late Mr. Henry Dangar, & it now is

owned by his son, the Hon. H. C. Dangar.

M.L.C., who almost wholly rebuilt it in

1870, & changed the name to “Grant-

ham” Immediately opposite “Grantham

Ville” was “Clarens” before mentioned,

which was in 1847 purchased by Mr.

George Richard Griffiths, father of Mr.

F. C. Griffiths, who came out to

Sydney as the general manager of Bank of

Australasia, & after resigning this ap-

pointment he conducted a merchant's busi-

ness in Sydney under the style of Griffiths,

Graham, and Co. & afterwards Griffiths.

Fanning & Co. He sold out when he

went to England in 1853. Later this pro-

perty was occupied by Sir James Martin, the

Chief Justice, & is now under the name

of “Wilga” owned and occupied by Dr.

Faithful. On the west side of Macleay

Street, next to Grantham, came Dr.

Douglas’ grant of 8 acres and 9 perches on

the 19th October, 1831. He afterwards

sold it on 22nd September, 1832, to Colonel

Shadforth, who built Adelaide Cottage

upon it. The land extended from Macleay

Street down to the waters of Woolloo-

tnooloo Bay. The whole property came

later into the possession of Mr. J. H.

Challis (manager for Messrs. Flower, Salt-

ing & Co. & later a partner), who

gave it with other property as a magnificent

bequest, valued at £250,000, to the Univer-

sity of Sydney. For some time before &

after Mr. Challis’ death it was occupied by

Mr. Macdonald, of Macdonald, Smith, &

Co.

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Elizabeth Bay House - Elizabeth Bay - New South Wales 

Elizabeth Bay House was built between 1835 & 1839 In the Regency Architectural Style & was originally surrounded by a 22 Hectare garden, in what was then the Fashionable Suburb of Woolloomooloo Hill. 

The rooms, Sweeping staircase and lavish furnishings reveal the tastes of its original owner Alexander Macleay. The one time Colonial Secretary Of New South Wales, had magnificent gardens Expressed his passion for the natural world. By the 1840's a downturn in the economy ushered him towards financial ruin. 

Alexander macleay arrived in Sydney from England in January 1826, with his wife Eliza, 9 of 10 surviving children, and his extensive entomological collection. At the time he possessed the finest and most Extensive collection of any private individual in England. 

Architect John Verge produced a design for a splendid "Marine Villa" in the Greek Revival Style which was at its peak of popularoity at the time. 

A Nearby grotto with accompnaying stone walls & steps, plus several trees, are all that remain of the original extensive Gardens. It helf Macleays considerable native and exotic Plant Collection, an orchard & kitchen garden. 

The main axis of the house is aligned with the Winter Solstice. 

For the remainder of the 19th Century & well into the 20th Century Elizabeth Bay House had a Chequered history, With the property being subdivided, the gardens were reduced to a small fragment. The house became home for a succession of tenants inclusing many artists. 

In 1961 the National trust started to list and publicise important histporic places and Elizabeth bay house was One of the first 50 names. 

in 1977 the house was extensively restored and refurbished. Initially so it could become the offical residence of the Lord Mayor of Sydney, it later became one of the first properties acquired by the Historic Houses trust. 

Elizabeth Bay House: allotment of 54 acres granted to Alexander Macleay in 1828.

Elizabeth Bay House is one of only five remaining homes from the original 17 ''gentlemans's villas" that were the first buildings to be developed on Wolloomooloo Hill aka Darlinghurst in the 1830s. 

But it is one of only three that survive in their original condition without serious modifications. The others include Barham (1833), inside the grounds of SCEGGS, and Tusculum (1831-1835), on Manning Street in Potts Point. 

The other two - Telford Lodge (1831) and Rockwall (1837) - are barely recognisable and have been extensively modified or partially demolished and I'll write about them another day for my Villas series. 

Elizabeth Bay House was built for Alexander Macleay, Colonial Secretary, who was granted 54 acres  on a site chosen for its vistas across Sydney Harbour (below). 

The greatest thing about Elizabeth Bay House today is that it's owned by the Historic Houses Trust and is open to the public on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. So last month I took advantage of a special Shop Local! offer to view the house for only $4 - half the normal entry fee. 

The only problem was that when I arrived with my blogging friend, Sarah, her daughter Billie and partner, Miles, the woman behind the front desk refused to give us the discount, saying she knew nothing about it.

There were a few Shop Local! fliers on the front desk so I pulled one open and showed her the $4 special, but even then she said, ''It would be okay if you had a coupon, but you've just come in off the street, so you'll have to pay the full price."

There was no mention of any coupon so we continued to haggle with her until she eventually phoned head office and they agreed that there was no coupon and we should be allowed in for the special price. 

It was a rather unsavoury episode and didn't make us feel all that welcome. 

But I was glad we only paid $4 because if I had paid the grand sum of $8 I would have felt that I needed to get my monies worth by reading every little boring plaque scattered about the house. And as much as I enjoy reading about history, it was much more fun to just roam carefree about the house and admire the woodwork and enormous scale of the rooms, especially the swooping Marulan stone staircase in the central saloon of the home, which is an engineering marvel and has been the site of many professional photography shoots. Marulan stone is a mudstone quarried in the Southern Tablelands region of NSW. According to the guidebook, ''each tread is a single piece of stone cantilevered from the wall and rests on the step beneath it (the protruding stones can be seen within the saloon cupboard)''. 

Scottish-born Macleay was a passionate and extravagant man who spent liberally on landscaping his homes and his entomological collection, of which his main interest was lepidoptera - or moths and butterflies. He accepted the Australian post due to financial necessity. 

In 1795 he had entered the British Civil Service as chief clerk in the War Office and was later secretary of the Transport Board, but when the board was disbanded in 1818, Macleay was out of work. 

With mounting bills for his homes in Westminster and Surrey - which was undergoing landscaping improvements - as well as big spends for his entomological collection and investment losses through his brother's bank in Scotland, Macleay began borrowing money from his eldest son, William.

But in 1825, his former colleagues rallied and secured him the Australian post, which came with a 2000 Pound salary and an official residence that was initially rent free. 

Macleay arrived in Sydney in 1826 with his wife and six daughters (of a total of 17 children) but was so enamoured with the place he eventually persuaded other family members to join them, including his son William and grandchildren Arthur and Georgiana Onslow, who were the children of his India-based daughter and son-in-law, Rosa and Arthur Onslow. 

In those days Macleay's bug collection was recognised as the largest in private possession. Naturally, he brought it with him to Australia and it possibly had pride of place in his library (below), which at the time was the largest room in an Australian house, reflecting the importance Macleay placed on his books and natural history collections. The entomological collection is now held in the Macleay Museum at the University of Sydney.

With 54 acres of bushland at his disposal, Macleay immediately began establishing a botanic garden of imported plants to complement the native vegetation and the green space became quite an attraction with its rustic bridges, terrace walls and grottoes. 

According to one of his local nurseryman, Thomas Shepherd, Macleay didn't clear the land of natives, but selectively inter-planted his exotics to preserve the existing trees and shrubbery.

''From the first commencement he never suffered a tree of any kind to be destroyed, until he saw the distinct necessity of doing so,'' Shepherd wrote.

Today, one section of the garden remains just across the road at the front of the house and is known as Arthur McElhone Reserve (below; although the plants and landscaping are not original). There is also one grotto left if you know where to look (skip about 100m south of the house down Onslow Avenue, and follow the public path between the flats, Eltham and Tradewinds). 

The design of the house was as equally celebrated as its gardens and harbour views. The enormous two-storey, Greek Revival villa, with cellar, was designed by John Verge's architect firm and considered one of the most ''extravagant constructions of the day, with costs totalling around 10,000 Pounds'', according to the Villas book.

Plans for the home were developed in 1832 but construction was delayed until 1835 (possibly due to money being devoted to the development of the garden) and the house was not completed until 1839. Verge had retired by then, so there is some question surrounding his involvement in the design, with the possibility his employee and successor, John Bibb, may have played a greater architectural role. Scottish builder-architect, James Hume, was also brought to Sydney by Macleay and may have contributed to its design.

The villa design means the rooms are arranged around the central saloon or stair hall and allowed for "architectural experimentation with shaped interior spaces'', according to the guide book. As such, the rooms are shaped as ovals and quadrants. The ground floor rooms with their large French windows emphasise the relationship with the garden, Macleay's pride. 

But with all the love and passion Macleay dedicated to the development of Elizabeth Bay House and its gardens, he wasn't able to enjoy it for long. In 1837, Governor Richard Bourke forced Macleay to retire from his position, losing his 2000 Pound salary. In the 1840s, when the economy crashed in the new colony of Sydney, Macleay found himself further in debt. In late 1844 the house was mortgaged as Macleay's debt to his son, William, reached 18,195 Pounds.

The Macleays were forced to sell off furniture to settle some debts and in 1845 William took over the Elizabeth Bay House mortgage and assumed control of the estate. 

After less than six years in his ''grand, unfinished house'', Macleay then moved to his country property, Brownlow Hill, near Camden, southwest of Sydney. Macleay died in 1848 at Tivoli, the Rose Bay home of his daughter and son-in-law. 

William Macleay, an education commissioner, moved into the house in 1845 and lived there alone for 20 years. But ''lacking the aesthetic sensibility of his father, gave no thought to completing the building'', so that a planned Doric colonnade for the terrace surrounding the house was never built. 

I think the house still looks amazing, which brings to mind a Leonardo da Vinci quote: ''Art is never finished, only abandoned.''

William sounds like a curious character and according to the guidebook, during his time at Elizabeth Bay House, the residence ''was closed to all but the small circle of scientists and colonial intellectuals with whom (he) associated'', while ''the boundary of the estate was marked by signs warning potential trespassers of guard dogs.''

William died in 1865 and the house was inherited by his brother George who remained in London. George subdivided the estate and sold off lots on 99-year leases. In 1875, he subdivided again, leaving only 18 acres of the original 54 acre estate and in 1882, another sale left just 3 acres of garden around the house.

George and William's cousin, William John Macleay and his wife, Susan, were tenants of the house from 1865 to 1903. Susan was the daughter of Edward Deas Thomson, Alexander Macleay's successor as Colonial Secretary, who owned another one of the original villas, Barham.
William John was also a keen entomologist and had taken over the care of Macleay's vast collection, building the ''Macleayan Museum'' on an area that is now the lower corner of Ithaca Road and Billyard Avenue. William John donated the collection to the Macleay Museum at the University of Sydney in 1888 and was knighted for his generosity. He died in 1891.

From 1891 to 1911 the house was owned by James William Macarthur Onslow, great-grandchild of Alexander Macleay. You really need a family tree with the Macleays as there are so many of them.
Anyway, because the previous owner, George, had been based in London, the house was quite neglected, so Macarthur Onslow embarked on a maintenance program, which included new plumbing, the introduction of gas lighting, two new bathrooms, a servants's bell and a new portico.

From 1903 Macarthur Onslow leased the house to leather merchant, George Michaelis. In 1911, Michaelis purchased the house for 800 Pounds, becoming the first owner who was not from the Macleay family. He stayed on at the house, with his wife and three children until 1926, when he sold it to retailer Sir Sydney Snow. 

Snow, whose eponymous shop was on the corner of Pitt and Liverpool streets, paid 40,000 Pounds for the house before cannily on-selling it to Elizabeth Bay Estates Limited for 60,000 Pounds. (From 1929-1931, Snow was deputy chairman of Associated Newspapers Ltd, owner of the Sun newspaper.)

The final subdivision of the estate took place in 1927 with 16 being lots being put up for auction by Stanton & Son and Richardson & Wrench. Five lots were sold and were no doubt developed into the deco apartment blocks that exist around the house today. The remaining 11 blocks were sold again in 1934 and the late 1940s, when more apartment buildings were developed. 

The actual house failed to sell at auction in 1927 and that's when the squatters moved in. This period, when the ''Charm School'' artists occupied the house, was detailed in an exhibition, Kings Cross: Bohemian Sydney, that was held at Elizabeth Bay House in 2003. 

Artists that lived at the home in this period up to 1935 included Donald Friend, Rex Julius and Wallace Thornton, who held wild parties in the decaying mansion. 

In 1935, Elizabeth Bay Estates leased the property to a Mr and Mrs A. Hall and a Mrs L. Minnett, who ''renovated and redecorated the house as a venue for fashionable receptions'' and it ''featured in Sydney's social pages as a glamorous setting for wedding receptions, parties and balls'', according to the guide book.

In 1940, Evangeline Olga Murray, wife of realtor James Daniel Murray, purchased the house and immediately began renovating the home into 15 apartments, which was carried out ''sympathetically and without any damage to the original fabric of the house''.

In 1959 the house was declared an historic building whose preservation was ''essential for reasons of historic or architectural interest'' under the County of Cumberland Planning Ordinance.

When Ms Murray died in 1963, the Cumberland County Council purchased the home and the following year, when the council was abolished, it became the responsibility of the State Planning Authority. 

The authority commissioned repair works to the roof, dome and portico and in 1973 dedicated $275,000 to the building's restoration, but the costs rose to $750,000.

In 1977 the house opened to the public and in 1981 - along with Vaucluse House - became one of the first properties acquired by the Historic Houses Trust.

Yes, this is a very lengthy post, but that is mainly because there is so much information available about Elizabeth Bay House, its history, architecture and the families that lived there. The Historic Houses Trust has compiled a wealth of detail in its guidebook that I have barely touched on here. 

There are also countless plaques and information boards around the house and even an educational video (above), which can be viewed in the drawing room. The video features a bunch of school students on a bus to visit Elizabeth Bay House when one of the girls travels back in time and becomes a member of the Macleay family. 

You would need about one hour to wander around the house and about two hours if you have the patience to sit through the video and read all the information boards. But it's definitely worth a visit to the house, if only for the marvellous staircase and saloon. To make a day of it, stop by Lizzie Bay Gourmet, on the corner of Elizabeth Bay and Ithaca roads, where you can stock up on food supplies for a picnic in Macleay's old garden (Arthur McElhone Reserve, below) across the road from the house. 

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Daily Telegraph - Thursday 30 September 1926, page 10

HISTORIC HOME SOLD
ELIZABETH BAY HOUSE 

One of the finest hiBtorio homes in Australia. "Elizabeth Bay House," Onslow Avenue Elizabeth Bay; was sold -yesterday for £42,500 to a'well-known city business man. . The vendor
was Colonel Geo. Mlchaelis. managing director of M'Murtries, Ltd. "Elizabeth Bay House" was built, in 1828 by Alexander Macleay, then Colonial.- Secretary, he having : obtained a grant of .54 acres of ground on the foreshores - of Elizabeth Bay. Here he devoted a great deal of time and money, to the study & -classification of fauna & flora, & the property, was-famous- for its collection of flowers & shrubs from all over the world. The home was built by convicts, & underneath the dwelling are-two large cellars, now subdivided into- several rooms, where the convicts were quartered." The house is constructed entirely of 'Stone, & it is understood that it cost over- £10,000 to build. That sum represented a very large amount of money nearly 100 years ago. . . "Elizabeth Bay House" was occupied, by the Macleay family until 1903. The present' occupants. Col. Mlchaelis & his family, have lived there for over 20 years, & the previous resident was Colonel Onslow. In 1875 the extensive grounds were subdivided into streets & avenues, which form: portion of the suburbs, Potts Point, Elizabeth Bay, Rushcutters Bay and; part of Darlinghurst.. The original property extended from the shores of Elizabeth and Rushcutters Bays to William St Darlinghurst.  

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